Teddys Tackle Fly Fishing and Fly Tying Supply
Moose Mane Chironomid 7/8/2014

Moose Mane Chironomid by Ken Thorne

Hook:  Mustad 3399A - sizes 12 - 16                        
Thread: Black 12/0                    
Tail:  pearlescent Krystal Flash with Mallard or Wood Duck Flank feather            
Body: Black thread
Rib: Moose mane                    
Wingcase: - goose biot - amber or light tan                        
Gill: - Antron or Polyprop yarn

Tying Instructions

1. Start thread 2 eye-widths back of the eye. Wrap a thread base back to the start of the hook bend and then back up. This spot about one-third of the hook shank back from the eye will be the tie in point for most materials.

2. Tie in a single strand of Krystal flash at the tie-in point and while keeping it on the top fo the hook, wrap the thread back over it until you have covered the thread base, then return the thread to the starting tie-in point.  Keep the tail long and trim it later to match the feather slip tail length.

3. Tie in a folded slip of mallard or wood duck flank feather, measured so it will give a tail about the length of the straight part of the hook shank.  Holding the slip on top of the hook shank, wrap the thread over it back until you again just cover the thread base, then return the thread to the starting tie-in point.

4. Take two contrasting moose mane hairs (of similar diameter) and tie them in by the tips at the original tie-in point, and once again hold them on top of the hook shank while you wrap back over them until you have covered the thread base back to just the hook bend, then return the thread to the tie-in point.

5. Wrap the moose hairs up the shank to the starting tie-in point, making sure they lie side by side and do not cross over one another.  Tie them off and trim the butts.  Apply a good coat of head cement to the body and let dry.

6. If you have done things right you should still have 1 1/2 to 2 hook eye widths of empty hook shank behind the eye of the hook.  Wrap the thread forward until it is just behind the eye of the hook and tie in, using two or three wraps only, a small clump of white wool, leaving at least 3/4 inch sticking over the eye of the hook.  Holding both ends of this tuft, pull it into position on top of the hook and tie it down well.  Trim the part of the tuft that sticks to the rear of the hook, leaving the forward-facing portion email the head of the fly is finished.  Wrap back over the trimmed butts, leaving the thread once again at the starting tie-in point.

7. Tie in a small pointed slip of biot or other wing case material on top of the hook, This piece should be cut to shape before it is tied in, and you must be careful to get the length right when you tie it in because it is not easy to trim these small bits after they are tied in.  The wingcase should lie flush along the body and not stick out at an angle.  In order to do this you have to avoid tying it in at a lower point than the body itself, and you may have to build up a bit of a thread base at the tie-in point before you tie in the wingcase to ensure it sits well.

8. Cover up the trimmed butts and form a round thread head.  Whip finish and cut off the thread.  Hold the white gill tuft in your fingertips and trim it to size.  This takes some practise, and you will find that it is easier by far to get a good cut the first time while you are holding tension on the tuft.  If you cut it too long it is harder to get a nice cut because you can’t grab it with your fingers.  Apply head cement, preferably black, to the head.